There are numerous adjectives that could be used to describe Machu Picchu. It's spectacular, beautiful, mystical, powerful, fascinating and amazing - just to name a few. But my words will likely fall short of adequately describing it because Machu Picchu is a place that has to be seen to fully appreciate. More so, it needs to be experienced.
I was mesmerized by the train ride alone (or perhaps that was just the 6am departure time). I was like a six year old on his first trip to Disney World, bouncing from one side of the train to the other trying take in the constant bombardment of enticing scenery out of the large picture windows over the four hour ride. (That's a lot of energy for me to muster at that hour for anyone who knows me well).
The Andes seemed to evolve as the train made its way through the mountains with each iteration as impressive as the last, yet like an entirely new range altogether. At first, there were rounded, grass & bush covered peaks set to each side of wide valleys filled with farms and rural Q'uechuan towns. Next, the valleys tightened into gorges and the peaks became steep and jagged with snow still topping the highest points. Finally, the rough peaks gave way to lush, but formidable mountains with all manner of tropical-like trees, plants and bushes brimming with vitality. Had I made it no further than the train ride, I would've left Peru fulfilled.
Luckily, however, I continued on to my ultimate destination. How the Incas determined that this was the right place to build Machu Picchu, I'm not sure. But, I'd venture a guess that it was decided in an instant when they saw the place for the first time. It's a spectacular setting built on top of a mountain peak that towers above the Urubamba River, surrounded by equally formidable mountain peaks on all sides. The mountains are wrapped in a covering of clouds that float in and out while regularly fulfilling the water needs of the vegetation on the mountain slopes.
The Machu Picchu ruins themselves are enough cause for wonder let alone the surroundings. Just the sheer scope of the undertaking was impressive. There are some 80 terraced agricultural plots built directly into the side of the mountain with each about 50ft wide and stacked on top of each other. Add a couple dozen residences, a school, an industrial sector, a prison, a football field-sized recreational area, a palace, courts and temples - all integrated perfectly into each other and the mountain. The effort it took to construct it is astounding given the altitude and thousands of individual boulders used (and they are definitely boulders in most cases), not to mention that the walls are still standing and solid a couple thousand years later.
I spent my first day at Machu Picchu just exploring the ruins. It was sometimes like a maze, with a new surprise at each turn...a new room, a new wall, or a secret passage. It took all of that day just to get a feel for the place. You can drink it all in from a good vantage point (and there are many), but you can't really grasp it without hitting it from all directions. As I was exploring, I wondered how any of the work ever got done. I could've just stood for hours and stared at the mountains all around, the river below or the clouds streaming in and out. Work would've been the last thing on my mind.
On the second day I decided to explore some of the outlying areas around the main settlement. I woke early and hiked my way up to Intipunku (Gate of the Sun). Intipunku is a notch in the middle of a mountain ridge about 1,000 ft above the Machu Picchu ruins. It's where travelers on the Inca Trail get their first look at Machu Picchu as the trail turns down toward the ruins. At one of the solar equinoxes (can't remember which), the sun sets directly through the 'gate' and hits Machu Picchu squarely. It's said to be a very spiritual experience that thousands of people flock to each year. The rest of the year, hikers on the trail or people like me hiking up from the ruins try to get to the gate just before sunrise as it's supposed to be one of the best places on earth to see a sunrise. Unfortunately, the clouds failed to part and provide such a show for me. Still, the hike gave me a small taste of the Inca Trail which was enough to make me regret not doing it this time and swear I'll do it if I ever return.
After re-energizing myself at lunch, I set out to hike Huayna Picchu which is the mountain seen directly behind the ruins in just about any photo, including mine, you've ever seen of Machu Picchu. The morning hike to Initpunku was no picnic and I probably shouldn't have tackled both in a single day at that altitude. But, that thought didn't come to me until I was halfway up Huayna Picchu gasping for air. The trail's not too bad under normal conditions, but the altitude kills you. I found some relief to see that just about everyone else, fit or not, was in the same boat.
After about an hour and a half I made it to the top and was happy for every labored breath it took. Huayna Picchu hovers above the surrounding range and provides a post card view of Machu Picchu (the one I'd missed from Initpunku earlier in the day). I could see waterfalls spilling down a few of the mountains across the valley and felt like I could almost touch the clouds covering the sky just above. I spent a good 45 minutes on top just absorb it all so as not to loose it as I deprived my brain of oxygen again on the way down.
Back down at the Machu Picchu ruins, I spent the remainder of the afternoon continuing to explore and still found new discoveries around new corners. I stayed until the last possible second wishing that I could 'just have one more minute'. But, even as the sun set on the train ride back, my senses remained fully engulfed as the images and memories continued to float in my brain.
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| From Machu Picchu ... |
I was mesmerized by the train ride alone (or perhaps that was just the 6am departure time). I was like a six year old on his first trip to Disney World, bouncing from one side of the train to the other trying take in the constant bombardment of enticing scenery out of the large picture windows over the four hour ride. (That's a lot of energy for me to muster at that hour for anyone who knows me well).
The Andes seemed to evolve as the train made its way through the mountains with each iteration as impressive as the last, yet like an entirely new range altogether. At first, there were rounded, grass & bush covered peaks set to each side of wide valleys filled with farms and rural Q'uechuan towns. Next, the valleys tightened into gorges and the peaks became steep and jagged with snow still topping the highest points. Finally, the rough peaks gave way to lush, but formidable mountains with all manner of tropical-like trees, plants and bushes brimming with vitality. Had I made it no further than the train ride, I would've left Peru fulfilled.
Luckily, however, I continued on to my ultimate destination. How the Incas determined that this was the right place to build Machu Picchu, I'm not sure. But, I'd venture a guess that it was decided in an instant when they saw the place for the first time. It's a spectacular setting built on top of a mountain peak that towers above the Urubamba River, surrounded by equally formidable mountain peaks on all sides. The mountains are wrapped in a covering of clouds that float in and out while regularly fulfilling the water needs of the vegetation on the mountain slopes.
The Machu Picchu ruins themselves are enough cause for wonder let alone the surroundings. Just the sheer scope of the undertaking was impressive. There are some 80 terraced agricultural plots built directly into the side of the mountain with each about 50ft wide and stacked on top of each other. Add a couple dozen residences, a school, an industrial sector, a prison, a football field-sized recreational area, a palace, courts and temples - all integrated perfectly into each other and the mountain. The effort it took to construct it is astounding given the altitude and thousands of individual boulders used (and they are definitely boulders in most cases), not to mention that the walls are still standing and solid a couple thousand years later.
I spent my first day at Machu Picchu just exploring the ruins. It was sometimes like a maze, with a new surprise at each turn...a new room, a new wall, or a secret passage. It took all of that day just to get a feel for the place. You can drink it all in from a good vantage point (and there are many), but you can't really grasp it without hitting it from all directions. As I was exploring, I wondered how any of the work ever got done. I could've just stood for hours and stared at the mountains all around, the river below or the clouds streaming in and out. Work would've been the last thing on my mind.
On the second day I decided to explore some of the outlying areas around the main settlement. I woke early and hiked my way up to Intipunku (Gate of the Sun). Intipunku is a notch in the middle of a mountain ridge about 1,000 ft above the Machu Picchu ruins. It's where travelers on the Inca Trail get their first look at Machu Picchu as the trail turns down toward the ruins. At one of the solar equinoxes (can't remember which), the sun sets directly through the 'gate' and hits Machu Picchu squarely. It's said to be a very spiritual experience that thousands of people flock to each year. The rest of the year, hikers on the trail or people like me hiking up from the ruins try to get to the gate just before sunrise as it's supposed to be one of the best places on earth to see a sunrise. Unfortunately, the clouds failed to part and provide such a show for me. Still, the hike gave me a small taste of the Inca Trail which was enough to make me regret not doing it this time and swear I'll do it if I ever return.
After re-energizing myself at lunch, I set out to hike Huayna Picchu which is the mountain seen directly behind the ruins in just about any photo, including mine, you've ever seen of Machu Picchu. The morning hike to Initpunku was no picnic and I probably shouldn't have tackled both in a single day at that altitude. But, that thought didn't come to me until I was halfway up Huayna Picchu gasping for air. The trail's not too bad under normal conditions, but the altitude kills you. I found some relief to see that just about everyone else, fit or not, was in the same boat.
After about an hour and a half I made it to the top and was happy for every labored breath it took. Huayna Picchu hovers above the surrounding range and provides a post card view of Machu Picchu (the one I'd missed from Initpunku earlier in the day). I could see waterfalls spilling down a few of the mountains across the valley and felt like I could almost touch the clouds covering the sky just above. I spent a good 45 minutes on top just absorb it all so as not to loose it as I deprived my brain of oxygen again on the way down.
Back down at the Machu Picchu ruins, I spent the remainder of the afternoon continuing to explore and still found new discoveries around new corners. I stayed until the last possible second wishing that I could 'just have one more minute'. But, even as the sun set on the train ride back, my senses remained fully engulfed as the images and memories continued to float in my brain.
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