A Hobbling Happy New Year In Hanoi

From Hanoi '07

Hanoi was one of those places that barely found the edges of my radar screen prior to embarking on this trip. This was mostly due to the numerous other cities I prioritized before it and the lack of research I did on the city due to such prioritization. I originally viewed Hanoi as a launching point to visit the nearby natural wonders of Ha Long Bay, figuring I’d at least check out the city while I was in the area. I figured even a brief exploration would provide fodder for comparison to the larger Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) that I'd be visiting a few weeks later.

Thus, I arrived in Hanoi with few expectations. Four days later I departed Hanoi having found it to be one of my favorite cities in all my travels. My affection for Hanoi could be in part to the unknowingly auspicious occasion of my arrival. I set foot in Hanoi, and Vietnam for that matter, on the eve of the country’s biggest national holiday, Tet New Year. Tet is an age old celebration of the lunar new year, an occasion more commonly associated globally with Chinese celebrations. In fact, the day I arrived kicked off a solid week’s worth of celebration that had most local businesses closed for the duration as everyone dispersed around the country to visit friends and relatives. The effect of the all those people traveling at once is something that would come to affect me at my next stop in Hoi An.

The pending celebrations provided an ideal introduction to the country’s national capital. Before I was made aware of what was going on by the staff at my hotel, I sensed the city was unusually abuzz, which was further illustrated by the numerous stages and decorations set up at various points around the central hub of the city for concerts, acrobatic performances, parties and fireworks. However, the celebrations would not begin until after sunset which left me ample time to explore Hanoi.








The city’s epicenter is the picturesque Hoan Kiem Lake that’s encircled by a thin band of tree-lined parks. The lake’s attractiveness and simple surroundings coupled with the decided lack of any buildings over five stories - Hanoi boasts one ’skyscraper’ at a whopping twenty stories - contributes significantly to the unexpectedly old world feel of Hanoi. That old worldliness is enhanced by the city’s engaging French Quarter lined with most of Hanoi’s best hotels, shopping outlets and restaurants along wide, airy, tree-lined streets that seem almost ripped right out of Europe some fifty years ago. The sidewalk cafes and restaurants that fill the area and provide excellent atmosphere and sensational food at absurdly low prices - even for the most high end spots - add to the European-esque allure.










Hanoi’s Old Quarter, north of the lake, is a definite departure from the quaint French Quarter to it’s south, yet no less engaging. Replacing the French Quarter’s wide, airy streets are the tight, narrow ones of the Old Quarter which are packed with ramshackle storefronts and narrow tube homes built just 6ft-10ft wide, but typically 30ft-50ft back. The odd shaped housing is thanks to an old French-influenced tax scheme where homeowners were taxed on their street frontage instead of square feet/meters. Those homes and business remain long after the tax plan was abandoned and make for a densely packed, energetic area that provides a glimpse of the everyday life of most Vietnamese living in their capital city.







Regardless of the area of town or width, the streets themselves provide their own spectacle. Motorbikes are the main mode of transportation in Hanoi - more by need and affordability than perhaps preference - by a wide margin. Automobiles are reserved for tourist taxis or the rich and are found only infrequently. In fact most motorbikes serve as the family car and its not uncommon to see a family of four crowded onto one bike on their way to dinner or the market.

But, the better maneuverability of motorbikes seems perfectly suited for Vietnam’s roads which are among the most chaotic I’ve ever experienced. The only rule that applies on the roads of Vietnam is every man for himself. Motorbikes, cars, buses and trucks all swerve from one side of the road to another, including the oncoming lanes, with accidents narrowly avoided nearly every second as each driver uses every available inch of space to advance their own journey. The horn is seemingly the most important feature on any vehicle as it‘s used with migraine-inducing frequency to announce one‘s presence and demand that slower parties remove themselves from impeding the progress of faster drivers. Intersections are particularly hair raising as few include stop lights or stop signs and drivers fly through from every direction with seemingly little thought for crossing traffic.





Even crossing the street as a pedestrian in the middle of Hanoi is an ’at your own risk’ proposition. Pedestrians are an afterthought to anyone moving through the city on two or four wheels. My first attempt at crossing a Hanoi street happened to be on the widest and busiest street in the city, at rush hour no less. I spent a couple of minutes observing the sea of motorbikes constantly streaming past, as well as other pedestrians who managed to successfully complete their own crossings. Then, I stepped into the street and began to wade through the onslaught of exhaust-spewing motorbikes, picking my way step by step until I finally managed to reach the other side more or less unscathed. I got used to it after a few attempts and eventually strode through the tides of motorbikes with increasing confidence. But, whether a pedestrian or passenger, Vietnam traffic is not for the faint of heart.

Street-crossing obstacles aside, Hanoi’s small layout makes it an easily walkable city, the majority of which can be covered in less than a day. So, as nightfall came I’d managed to nearly complete my initial tour of the city and headed back to my hotel to prepare for the night’s exciting festivities. Much like NYC on New Year’s Eve, I noticed crowds beginning to pack the streets around the lake in anticipation of the fireworks extravaganza to be unleashed a few hours later. Signs and decorations began to glow as the daylight faded and stages began to show signs of coming to life.

But, on the way back to my hotel while scuttling across the street to avoid the oncoming surge of motorbikes, I felt a 'pop' in my right calf. I was suddenly rendered unable to walk, a fact that significantly infringed on my plans to celebrate the Tet New Year with the throng that night. I hailed a cab and returned to my hotel to evaluate my options for the evening.

As luck would have it, my hotel decided to host a New Year‘s Eve party for guests on it‘s roof deck. With the hotel just a block from the lake, it provided the perfect proximity from which to view the fireworks. What’s more, they were providing free food and drinks, including celebratory champagne. So, about twenty minutes before midnight, I hobbled up the stairs to the roof only to find out that I was the only guest to take them up on their party.

But, hanging out with four Vietnamese men on the roof of my hotel, as their most beloved holiday kicked off with an impressive display of fireworks, turned out to be one of the more memorable experiences I’ve had. Within just twelve hours of arriving in the country, I got a unique opportunity to experience a small slice of Vietnamese life. As the clock struck midnight, I joined in the toast for a prosperous New Year, which each man equally wished me as much as each other. I watched as the men exchanged excited smiles and wide eyes as the fireworks show thundered to life in the sky. They regularly turned to me to make sure I wasn't missing the best ones. About three quarters of the way into the fireworks, I even noticed as the excitement gave way to a quiet, almost introspective reflection and sense of happiness for the start of the new year as evidenced by the satisfied smile on each face.





As the fireworks died down, we did our best to make conversation, in their broken English and my lack of any Vietnamese. We traded tidbits about ourselves and life in our respective countries, about the weather - a conversational element that seems iniversal! - and our work lives. When I made to leave, having felt I’d stayed my welcome, they insisted I stay for another glass of wine eager to share their holiday with a complete stranger. Two more defeated intentions to leave later, I finally said a final ‘thank you’ and ‘goodnight’ which was met with a series of hearty handshakes and well wishes for a happy, healthy new year.

I spent a few more days in Hanoi relishing in the Tet New Year’s festivities that enlivened the city as well as it‘s day-to-day natural charm. I even made it out to Ha Long Bay which had been the initial reason for my stop in Hanoi. While Ha Long Bay turned out to as naturally stunning and interesting as expected, it ended up being upstaged by my visit to the unexpectedly alluring Hanoi. Perhaps a few glasses of wine, some fireworks, and four men going out of their way to be overly hospitable to a complete stranger on their most cherished national holiday had something to do with that.

HANOI PHOTO ALBUM (click on the photo):

Hanoi '07

HA LONG BAY PHOTO ALBUM (click on the photo):

Ha Long Bay '07