Awesome Amsterdam

When I was in Vietnam, I met a couple from Amsterdam and commented to them how surprised I was to encounter more Dutch travelers, by far, in my journeys than any other country. They didn’t seem that surprised by my observation and the husband attempted to explain the phenomenon by quoting his own philosophy on international travel. He explained, “The world is a big, interesting place. I’ll see my own country when I’m old.” He was about sixty-five.

If the rest of the Netherlands is anything like Amsterdam, however, then I actually might have to disagree with his logic. Amsterdam is a fantastic, world-class city right in his own back yard that seems to provide little impetus for leaving it. It didn’t take very long walking through the picturesque canaled streets of the Netherlands’s capital city to instantly anoint it as one of my favorite cities on the globe.

From Amsterdam '07

Amsterdam packs a lot into a rather compact space which makes it all that more alluring because everything is easily reachable on foot which was perfect for the three days I had to explore the city. Actually, biking is the preferred method of travel, rivaling the population of Hanoi for prevalence of two-wheeled transit.

That’s likely owed to the tight network of streets that can sometimes be too narrow or restricted to maneuver by car. It’s also likely owed to the fact that Amsterdam has one of the most relaxed atmosphere’s of any city I’ve visited. Rushing around in a frenzy doesn’t seem to be an option in the canal-laden city and a leisurely commute via bicycle is preferred which suited me just fine.




More than anything, I found Amsterdam to be incredibly comfortable. There is plenty to do and see with world class museums, attractive parks, scenic neighborhoods, and an ample assortment of cafes and restaurants. But, Amsterdam seems to invite you to just relax and enjoy it. I accepted that invitation while making sure to at see at least one or two of it’s quality attractions in the process.






Of course, a tour of the Heineken brewery museum might not really count as immersing myself in the cultural offerings of Amsterdam. Then again, the city embraces it’s foremost beer purveyor in much the same way St. Louis embraces Budweiser so perhaps I‘m exonerated. Plus, any 'museum’ that includes three free beers and a parting gift, all with the price of admission, is not one I’m inclined to pass up.






Obviously, beer isn’t the only mind-altering substance for which the city is famous. Coffee shops in Amsterdam offer up a menu far different from that you’ll find in Starbucks, which may be why I didn’t see a single Starbucks in Amsterdam. I think coffee is offered somewhere on the menu, but it’s not the most popular item. Marijuana is legal in Amsterdam and coffee shops are the place to buy and smoke it, although you can do both elsewhere.



With it’s open availability, however, people’s desire for pot - or it’s hash brethren - seems to be at a much more tame level than in places, like the U.S., where it’s illegal. It’s enjoyed in much the same manner as beer or wine is enjoyed in the U.S. Most of those partaking of coffee shop products seem to enjoy it in moderation, using it more in a social context than smoking themselves into a state where they lose control of themselves.

As with alcohol, I’m sure that happens from time to time, but seems to be an exception more than the rule. In that regard it’s done in a fairly sedate, unobtrusive manner - it’s not as rampant as you might believe - and the policy seems to work well within Amsterdam. Although, I’m sure the worldwide debate over whether it should continue and/or be adopted elsewhere will continue for decades.

Amsterdam’s other most notable legalized vice - that’d be prostitution -was perhaps even more intriguing to witness (not for the obvious reasons), if not much more difficult to determine whether it’s legalization was as equally an effective social policy. The red light district is actually a place that seems to draw you to it regardless of your feelings on the subject.

In fact, it feels very institutionalized, if that’s possible given the subject matter, and far from seedy. It resembles almost any other Amsterdam neighborhood just walking down it’s streets, but instead of purses, shoes, clothes or some other sort of material goods, the floor-to-ceiling glass doors and windows are filled with bikini clad girls of all shapes and sizes attempting to entice passers by to stop in and see what’s on offer. It gives the term window shopping a whole new meaning.




But, it almost reaches the point of parody, especially since most of the passers by are curious tourists - usually in large packs being taking on a walking tour through the area - who just want to see the it all for themselves as they giggle, gawk and peer at what’s going on all around them out in the open. It feels especially surreal when you find yourself among a large group of 70-year-olds who are blocking the street while watching an actual negotiation take place - not ‘transaction‘, that‘s done behind curtained doors.

Although I imagine it was far more uncomfortable for the man being watched by two dozen septuagenarians as he attempted to negotiate his ‘purchase’ and make his way inside as quickly as possible. Unfortunately for him, he exited almost as quickly as I saw him walking down the street no more then 5-10 minutes later.

Still, associating Amsterdam strictly with the goings-on of the red light district would be coloring the city in a very singular and unfair light, red or otherwise. It’s a very small section - not to mention one that can be easily avoided if desired - of a beautiful, dynamic city that actual looks surprisingly conservative despite it’s open approach toward social policies. Just wandering it’s picturesque streets, walking along it’s scenic canals, or lazing an afternoon away in one of it’s numerous parks or cafes provides ample enjoyment on any day as it did on each of the one‘s I spent there.

But, the city hasn’t always been so carefree and it’s memory of a not so distant turbulent past may be subconsciously what drive’s it’s considerably more tolerant present. It took a trip through one of the most inspiring, troubling and remarkable museums that I’ve had the privilege to visit to provide the small bit of insight into Amsterdam‘s societal structure.

The Anne Frank House museum is comprised of the actual home on the picturesque Prinsengracht canal in central Amsterdam where Anne, her family, and a handful of acquaintances sequestered themselves from the outside world. They remained there for two years during the latter stages of World War II when Holland fell under Nazi control.

While walking through the home’s many rooms and different floors, poignant excerpts of Anne Frank’s insightful and telling personal journals provide just the right perspective to understand the environment that the group lived in during that time. Artifacts from the family, the group of non-Jewish helpers that kept the family’s secret, and even a few pulled from Nazi archives are scattered throughout the rooms as well.

The block-out curtains that kept those passing by from being able to see inside - and discover the banished group of Jews in their midst - remain intact and you can take a peek out the window down to the street below just as Anne did when she was yearning for a taste of the outside world.



But, the most surreal experience was walking through the secret passage way hidden behind the still standing bookcase that led to the entrance to the rooms where the family and acquaintances managed to stay hidden away from friends, neighbors, and Nazis for over two years. The handful of rooms where the group lived, ate, slept and entertained each other seemed marginally adequate for a small family of four, let alone a group triple that number who never dared leave their self imposed isolation.

Anne’s ultimate outcome, and how close she came to escaping it, is all the more disheartening after taking a walk through what consisted of her entire world for the most famous portion of her short, but significant life. But, it’s ultimately inspiring to see, in the final portion of the museum dedicated to the impact of Anne’s book on the world, how her story and the realization of her dream of becoming a famous writer has affected millions of others who make their way to her former residence, read her beyond-her-years diary-as-book, or hear about her story in any other variety of ways.

It would even seem that perhaps she - and everyone else who was oppressed, ostracized, or killed in Amsterdam during World War II - played as significant, though unacknowledged, a part in shaping the current culture of Amsterdam - and the Netherlands - as anyone.

Thankfully Amsterdam has long recovered from it’s darker days some sixty years ago and done so in extraordinary fashion. In fact it’s on the short, but growing, list of cities on the planet where I could see myself spending a few years living and working. I wouldn’t be the least bit upset if a few years turned into a lifetime.

But, if I follow the example set by the many Dutch I’ve encountered in my journeys, then it would mean that I wouldn’t actually remain in Amsterdam all that often. I’d rather not wait “until I’m old” to take time to visit Amsterdam again, so instead I’ll just endeavor to become a frequent visitor. Plus, I suspect that there are more than a few apartments available to rent from a number of the city’s more elderly citizens who are still out exploring the rest of the world until they get old.


AMSTERDAM PHOTO ALBUM (click photo):

Amsterdam '07